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How to re-stuff bakelite block caps for Philco

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How to re-stuff bakelite block caps for Philco Empty How to re-stuff bakelite block caps for Philco

Post by tpaairman on Fri Jan 02, 2009 12:51 am

Every now and then the question will come up about how to re-stuff a bakelite block cap, which are exclusive to Philco.

Step one-Take a deep breath and relax. This is easier than it looks. You need to also get a schematic of the cap. Just look online for the part number or post here. Once you have that and you have the new inside parts, it's time to get started.

After you remove the cap from the radio, you have to gut the cap. You will find they are filled with a hard tar. I've seen people ask about freezing them or heating them. Freezing would make the tar brittle, but also the bakelite, so too much risk of breaking the bakelite. Heating them will make the tar a messy goo.

The best thing to do is leave it room temperature, and take a small screwdriver and start scraping it out. Be gentle, but you will still have it all gutted out in about 5 to 10 minutes. After it;s cleaned out, you will notice that on the side with the solder terminals are small holes where the old component's wire fed through. You can feed the leads of the new parts through the same holes, and solder to the terminals. After the parts are inside, you can fill it with wax. The old tar is black. And when it's in the set, there is no way to see that side. However if you still want it to look as it was, you can melt a layer of black wax on top. Just use a black crayon.

After that, it's done, and time to go back in.
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Post by Chuck Schwark on Fri Jan 02, 2009 6:06 pm

FYI, Here is another methor used by myself and others who have tried it:


• BAKELITE BLOCK RE-BUILDING •
http://www.philcorepairbench.com/capbuild.htm

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Post by LarryC on Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:29 pm

I usually just use a small flat tip screw driver and dig the tar out. Sometimes the tar just comes out in chunks or you end up getting the whole mess to come out as one piece.
Its not hard to do at all, Ive tried the oven approach (very smelly) and forget using lacquer thinner, that stuff is just plain toxic, and not really needed, use paint thinner or mineral spirits instead if you need to clean up the block.
Overall very easy to do, just make sure you know how the parts are to be installed in the block. There are some diagrams floating around on the internet somewhere, or you could get ahold of a copy of philco's own service notes showing the block diagrams.
Better yet, use your brain and make a drawing showing how the wires were connected to the block and using the regular radio schematic put in the cap and resistor symbols for what goes into the block. king
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Post by Gordon on Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:08 pm

I used an ice pick on my 90 consol that I had to replace all of them. It worked great and then filled them with wax.
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Post by Don Cavey on Sat Feb 07, 2009 2:11 pm

I have used the heat gun approach. And I do use lacquer thinner with a Q-Tip. Only cats live here on a regular basis. (An occasional female visitor but the smell is always gone by then!) Wink

I actually like to rebuild them. A lot easier than stuffing tubular caps or electrolytics...

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Post by exray on Sat Feb 07, 2009 2:29 pm

Me too with the heatgun. Makes it a snap and its not messy. You often don't even need to remove them from the set.
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Post by Ken g on Sun Feb 08, 2009 2:38 pm

I have tried a few ways over the years . Now i first simply try pushing the old cap out through the terminal holes and if if pops out good ... if not i heat up each terminal with the soldering gun enough to lightly heat the whole block & push again .

Then i remove the screw and finish usually without taking any wires off unless its a big stiff resistor .. just turn it enough to work on it . Some of the tar stuff does remain but it can be cleaned up
with goof off .

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