My Project: Westinghouse H-438T5

5 tube, circa 1955.
I wish I had taken before pictures. This was a mess, but intact under the grime and there were only a few chips in the case, but stains that ran so deep I had to sand off material and re-polish the case. The clear dial window's numbers came off...well, not the molded, raised numbers themselves, but the white paint or ink. I repainted them with a hobby brush and plastic model paint. Same with the gold lettering on the case itself.

It receives, but has an overwhelming hum and the power supply condenser seems to be dried out. I have parts to replace it. The under chassis looks pretty good, overall.

Any tips on straightening the back panel? Labeling on it is strong, but it is a bit warped.
Also, should I attempt to check IF alignment?

Cheers,
Rob

I would also reccommend replacing all the paper capacitors, including that striped black beauty cap.

I like what you did with the station numbers. They look factory. You must have a steady hand. These twin speaker radio's usually sound pretty good once they are gone over. Good luck and keep us updated on your progress. If you run into any problems, just ask and we'll help you.

Bill Cahill wrote:I would also reccommend replacing all the paper capacitors, including that striped black beauty cap.

OK. Thanks. I have a Sams Photofact for it...so I should be able to get the mF/pF values from that.

Tony V wrote:I like what you did with the station numbers. They look factory. You must have a steady hand. These twin speaker radio's usually sound pretty good once they are gone over. Good luck and keep us updated on your progress. If you run into any problems, just ask and we'll help you.

Than you. No so steady...just a small brush and experience building plastic models so I know how to brace my wrist against the bench and clean off over spill will a toothpick after the paint gels but before it dries.

cheers
Rob

Just so you know... Back then, most paper caps were measured in microfarads. Mica caps were measured in PF, or, Pico farads.
MF Microfarads.
PF Pico farads, whicch is started as micro micro farads.
Examples:
.05 MF microfarads.
.005 PF Picofarads.
.0005 Pico picofarads.

Bill Cahill

A bit of trivia on the micro-micro farad designation;
I learned alot from an old Navy Chief who said the slang term back then was "mickey mikes"

Actually, that's lay man's terms. Not the official tern.

Like Oh-Dark-Thirty?

Ragwire wrote:Like Oh-Dark-Thirty?

YEP! LOL

Bill Cahill wrote:Just so you know... Back then, most paper caps were measured in microfarads. Mica caps were measured in PF, or, Pico farads.
MF Microfarads.
PF Pico farads, whicch is started as micro micro farads.
Examples:
.05 MF microfarads.
.005 PF Picofarads.
.0005 Pico picofarads.

Bill Cahill

Thanks, Bill, for that. I forgot a lot of that stuff.

Rob

The new caps are maked different than what I remember. If you go to Radiodaze not only will you be able to buy the capacitors but they have a chart for the capacitor numbers.
This link is for the capacitor chart;
http://www.radiodaze.com/category/454.aspx

Bookmarked!
I ordered tubes, too. I figured I'd get a few common ones on hand in case I need them, but I don't recall ever needing a tube.
But then, the radios I got back in the '80s to restore were like 30 years old and now they're closer to 60. Seems like tubes, in reality, are more reliable than the text books used to give them credit for. But then I used to do and later teach refrigeration and air conditioning, and the texts all taught that 90% of failures were electrical, and my experience was that 60% were failures in the system...leaks, etc...(excluding dirty condensers)...LOL

Nice job on the cabinet details. That back doesn't look too badly warped. I wonder if you could put some 1" blocks on the edges and some weight in the center and "bring it back" overall it looks to be in good condition.

If it is the convex bow in the masonite rear cover that is what you want to straighten out, I would try steaming the interior side until it would give a bit, but not necessarily wet and then clamp it flat and let it dry bone dry. If you put a plush piece of cloth between the masonite and what you clamp it to, it would recurve slightly, and correct when back in place with the radio on.

Good idea! Thanks.

I have a question on caps too...some of the caps listed on the Sams Photofact are listed values as 5000 and 10000 with no units. Others are .01, and the filter caps for power supply is 50. I know the filter is in mF but the others can't be .01 mF then 10000 mF for a little cap...must be ceramic and in pF then?

I'm cornfused...

I'd physically examine them and if they are ceramic they should be pf. Also look at the immediate circuit they are associated with. That will offer clues to their multipliers.

OK. I re-read Bill's post also, and I think that must be the case.
I cabinet is done. Far from perfect, but better than it was. Chassis work/circuit repair next. Thanks again for the tips everyone.

Rob

That looks terrific! Great job!

Thanks!
Today I did some details like the black panel behind the dial indicator. It was paper and I originally found it on the bottom of the cabinet. Both speakers check out (pop and move the same amount with a 1.5 volt battery) but the left had some small tears. I patched those up and reinforced the brittle paper on both with some clear coat laquer and a small brush...just lightly.

Repainted the dial indicator needle and lubricated all the shafts. I steamed the back panel for a few minutes and have it pressed between a couple of cutting boards with weight on top for the night. Washed the tubes, and inspected the sockets. They look good. Next I will clean the copper chassis and tuning capacitor, and see about replacing the power supply filter capacitor and the others...maybe check resistor values, too.

This is fun!

That cabinet looks even better, seeing your meticulous gold trim work on the other thread!

Thanks man!
It's done and running. I have been using it to listen to talk radio in the mornings.

Rob