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Improving but NOT Refinishing Cabinet

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Improving but NOT Refinishing Cabinet Empty Improving but NOT Refinishing Cabinet

Post by Uffda on Thu Mar 13, 2008 1:25 am

I have a bunch of 1923-25 battery sets with fair to pretty good finish. How should I go about making
them look nicer while retaining the original finish. Clean then? Howards finish restorer? Some other
type of blending agent? I am not looking for showroom new, just a more even look that makes the scuffs
less noticeable.


-Phil

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Post by Resistance is Futile on Thu Mar 13, 2008 3:12 am

I am not an expert at this but I have used a mild abrasive that doesn't scratch glass such as bon-ami. Chalk is also another form of polishing away scuffs and paint scrapes. I have even use a pencil eraser very lightly.

I have removed scuff marks and even from car finishes with Never Dull magic wading as it doesn't dull the painted surfaces. It polishes well and will create a shine if use carefully, also give Brasso a try. I have use all three on plastic to shine them to a mirror finish. cheers

I wouldn't advise this on Paper finishes though.
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Post by Uffda on Thu Mar 13, 2008 3:40 am

These are all wood cabinets. I guess what I am really asking is if there is some sort of wash that will fill in the
lighter worn areas. Howard Restor-A-Finish is the only product I have heard of like this. Are there better others?

I may just brush some diluted stain on the worst areas as I don't like the idea changing the good original color with
wholesale staining.

-Phil

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Post by Oldsmobile Man on Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:54 am

I LOVE this orange glo stuff you can buy IT IS AMAZING ON ALL TYPES OF WOOD.... it is the best thin i've ever bought!!! Shocked

You could also buy a tibit almond stick that works wonders on all types of scratches...

I'd love to see some pics Smile

all the best
Robert
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Post by Uffda on Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:22 am

The camera I want is coming out in a month or two.

-Phil

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Post by Oldsmobile Man on Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:26 am

What kind of camera? My friend just spent a fortune on this amazing cannon eos rebel xti.... The Pontiac Periseianne I am looking at buying is cheaper!!!


Robert
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Post by Uffda on Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:32 am

I had a nice Casio but it was too complex for me. Sold it to my brother and am going back to
Kodak-easy to use and pic quality gook enough for me. The new one has touch screen!
No time to look up model --work.

Phil

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Post by philcoguy on Fri Mar 21, 2008 6:08 am

after useing howerd-restore-a-finish to fill in the marks and chips. After use scots liquid gold polish most polishes fade after a day or so 90% of the time liquid gold dose not. If you have a real dry finish use howards feed and wax. hope this helps John Tyminski

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Post by Uffda on Fri Mar 21, 2008 9:39 am

John, Did you mean use the feed and wax instead of restor-a-finish? Or instead of liquid gold?

-Phil

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Post by Resistance is Futile on Fri Mar 21, 2008 4:04 pm

I have read that for a lasting finish that doesn't need constant care is to use Johnson's paste wax, but I haven't seen it in a long time.
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Post by philcoguy on Sun Mar 23, 2008 2:03 am

no if you have a real dry finish use feed and wax first then after 2 or 3 coats of feed and wax buff the finish with scotts

john tyminski

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Post by bobwilson1977 on Sun Feb 08, 2009 9:46 pm

Howard's is great stuff. JUst used some today in fact. I usually clean a set with Howard's first, buff off all the oily residue, then follow up with old-fashioned paste floor wax. That way you get a pretty nice shine that seals the surface as well.

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Post by Ken g on Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:19 pm

If you want something that lasts use danish oil or Varathane brand stain . Wipe on one side or top at a time & wipe it back off .

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Post by Timaaay! on Mon Feb 09, 2009 12:54 am

Home Depot or Loew's sells Johnson's paste wax (can't remember which) but I wasn't too pleased with it.
It's a bit more money, but someone (at a local museum) recommended Meguires tech wax 2.0 and the difference between it and the Johnson's wax was like night and day.
It's $18 bucks for a can but you only need a small amount, it's MUCH easier to apply and take off, and the results are absolutely amazing.
The Johnson's wax is hard to use, and shows every single fingerprint if it's touched. It also shows "streaking" and it's really hard to remove. The Meguiars doesn't exhibit any of these problems. It's all I use now.
I ran out of Johnson's Wax when about 1/2 way through a wood cabinet and finished with the Meguire's. A year later the Johnson's is dull and dry while the Meguiar's looks just like it did the day I used it.
http://meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G12718
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Post by Art Hoch on Mon Jul 08, 2013 12:27 pm

This may work for you--it may not.  I "restored" an old finish on a Zenith Super VII with a mixture of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, vinegar, and turpentine.  It was amazing how it came out.  Can give more instructions if you wish.
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Post by ea327 on Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:50 pm

I first used Howard's Restore-a-finish a few weeks ago. This stuff is fantastic! I've used it on three cabinets so far. I follow it up with Howard's Feed and Wax and I can't believe how great they look. These two products save a lot of time and effort.
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Post by alfort on Fri Oct 25, 2013 10:29 am

Gentlemen,

I'm new to this forum, in fact this is my first post.  I've been reading all the above comments and am somewhat concerned.

What you use on your cabinets to clean and touch them up is very important for the future if you or anyone else may want to refinish them or major repairs are needed.

Never, never use any product that contains silicone.  This includes furniture waxes and polishes and automotive waxes and polishes.  Silicone will cause problems with newly applied finishes.  Items like Pledge should be avoided like the Plague on all your furniture.

All of the abrasives that have been mentioned above are just various forms of fine abrasive material.  I prefer to use items that have been developed specifically for the use because you know what is in them.  I use automotive (no silicones) rubbing, polishing, and swirl remover compounds.  All are liquid forms and I get them from an automotive paint store.  These guys know what is in the products and if they don't will find out.

Never use liquid gold. It is mainly oil and will attract dust and grime.  Eventually all your corners and crevices will accumulate the dirt. Johnson's Paste Wax is good, as are BriWax, Butcher's Wax, and others made especially for furniture without silicone. 

Finally, wood doesn't need to be fed.  The tree died a long time ago.  Soaking it with various oils and stuff only complicates finishing processes.

Good Luck with your restorations.
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Post by Eliot Ness on Fri Oct 25, 2013 3:18 pm

Welcome to the forum Al, and thank you for your informative post.  I am aware of the silicone taboo around automotive paint shops because of the fish-eye problems they can cause.  I would suspect that would be compounded in a wood finish with all the pores, grain, and crevices where silicone's would be difficult to remove.

I've used Johnson's (and Minwax) paste waxes as well as BriWax, but I have a question concerning two very popular treatments collectors use for radio cabinets.  Those two products are Old English and Howard's Restore-a-finish.  I have used both of those followed by a paste wax after a few days.  What is your opinion on those two products?  I don't believe they contain any silicone, but I think they may have an oil base.

Thanks!
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Post by alfort on Sat Oct 26, 2013 10:14 am

Most products like Old  English, Howard's Restore-a- Finish, Formby's, etc. have petroleum distillates in them.  They actually soften the finish and blend it together to give it a more uniform look.  Some have a finish in them to help even it out. Nothing really wrong with this if used on a finish that is in pretty good shape to start with. Different finishes react in different ways to these products.  You can do the same by determining what kind of finish in on the cabinet and then using the appropriate thinner (ie: nitro lacquer; use lacquer thinner, shellac; use alcohol, etc.).

As far as the silicone goes, once on a piece of wood there is no getting rid of it. There are products made to "wash it off" but can't get it all. There are also additives for finishes if you are using a spray set up that will help the finish flow out. They are basically more silicone compounding the problem in the future and contaminating your spray equipment. I've actually run a board through the planer taking off a 1/16" to see if the silicone could be removed that way and was unsuccessful. Fish eyes still showed up. Endust is a good product to dust your cabinets (and household furniture) with.
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Post by Wildcat445 on Sat Oct 26, 2013 10:56 am

Welcome to TRF, Al!

I look forward to more of your informative posts on furniture refinishing.

Regards

WC

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Post by Alan Douglas on Sat Oct 26, 2013 7:28 pm

Perhaps the problem for those who had bad luck with paste wax, is applying too much of it. A can should do a hundred radio cabinets. Apply it thinly before the solvent can evaporate. If it dries white, that excess has to be buffed off and is all wasted, as the final film is only a few molecules thick.

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Post by Brig on Mon Dec 02, 2013 6:04 pm

Art--Yes, please post more details and instructions about improving but not refinishing a cabinet using linseed oil. vinegar, and turpentine.

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