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Plaskon case reinforcement

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Plaskon case reinforcement Empty Plaskon case reinforcement

Post by Ben Delk on Fri Jan 25, 2013 11:33 am

I precently purchased an RCA (white) plaskon. The case has several hireline cracks in it. Anyone have a suggestion to reinforcing the case before it breaks all the way thru. I was think fiberglass patches.
Suggestions please.

Ben
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Post by Guest on Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:36 pm

Here is a link to a non competing site on plastic repair and more;

http://www.radiolaguy.com/info/professional.htm

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Post by Ben Delk on Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:10 am

MEZLAW wrote
.Here is a link to a non competing site on plastic repair and more;
http://www.radiolaguy.com/info/professional.htm.


I have considered that option but this little jewel has several stress fractures in a smal area which leads me to think it may need a wide approach. Perhaps something to pull all the stress fractures together as one area and strengthen it at the same time.This is my first Plaskon and I have read the white ones are prone to these fracture lines. I was leaning toward a 4"x6" piece of fiberglass applied over the inside under the fracture area but wondering if that would be an "over kill".

Plaskon case reinforcement KGrHqFHJFYFDQul4OGBQ7g7ilFQ60_121_zps29ebd3fb
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Post by Guest on Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:52 am

I was leaning toward a 4"x6" piece of fiberglass applied over the inside under the fracture area

Sounds like a good idea to me.

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Post by GaryRabbitt on Thu Feb 07, 2013 10:48 pm

Personally, I think that would be overkill using a huge sheet of cloth for those fractures. You aren't going to stabilize those cracks at all, and they will continue to run. Stress cracks are very thin, unlike a bad fracture. OK, well you could scarify the underside (for grip) and add cloth, but chances are it won't stop further cracks from happening in the next 25 years Shocked
If one were to put in a sheet of cloth, you'd need to scarfy the inside so the resin will grip the cabinet. If you try and use the resin and cloth alone, the patch will peel right off the slick surface.
If that set were mine, I'd put the superglue on the backside, let it 'wick in' and leave it alone.
As for the discoloration, some have used bleach on the topside to help get the fractures back to the color of the cabinet. You won't discolor the cabinet, just the dirt and crud in them. Results will vary.
The plaskon sets I have that exhibit the cracks, I leave alone. They aren't going to fall apart on the shelf. Plus, there are probably other smaller cracks you can't see. It's a symptom of the material itself, and the use ofver the years. No one expected these radios to be around in 60+ years Smile

For fun, here is a Plaskon set I repaired for Ron. These were not stress cracks, but it was dropped due to a bad shipper on Epay. Scarifying the slick inside will help the 'glass resin and cloth to grip better.
http://www.philcoradio.com/notebook/3812cbi.htm


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Post by Ben Delk on Fri Feb 08, 2013 8:37 am

Gary Rabbit wrote:
If that set were mine, I'd put the superglue on the backside, let it 'wick in' and leave it alone.

I don’t see any stress fracture lines on the inside. Would you still apply super glue to that area?

Now on the left side of the cabinet there is a break someone tried to superglue but it has separated again. It is a clean break and I may super glue it and apply a fiber patch for strength but at this point I don’t think I’ll paint it. Time will tell.
I have always leaned in the direction "an ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure". But then I’d never use an 8lb. hammer to drive a finishing nail so your working knowledge of the process is priceless and what you are saying has several valid points. What the heck I not selling it, if the stress lines crack in 20 years I’ll fix them then.
Thanks Gary……and the 38-12 looks awesome.
Ben
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Post by Bill Cahill on Fri Feb 08, 2013 11:17 am

Wow! What a job! Gary, you do great work!!!!!!!!
Bill Cahill

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Post by Ben Delk on Sun Feb 10, 2013 10:51 am

Left the stress fracture alone, just bleached them to remove the darkness. The left side has a separation break but still intact. I scarffed the area with a drimmel, V cut a the inside edges of the break and applied super glue, applied epoxy over the scarfed area and sprayed paint over that. The crack is visible but I am undecided if I will paint or not.....leaning toward not painting.

Plaskon case reinforcement IMG_0413_zps92f66de8
Plaskon case reinforcement IMG_0416_zps2ea0b463
Plaskon case reinforcement IMG_0406_zps433873ca
Plaskon case reinforcement IMG_0414_zpsaf17e59c
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Post by DancingBear on Sun Feb 10, 2013 11:47 am

The two-part epoxy-clearcoat offered up in most hardware stores works pretty good on things like this. It's usually sold as a polyurethane thick clear coat for tables and the like. If you clean the surface really well and make sure you have a low spot inside the case where it will pool up and strengthen it should work also. I don't like mixing fiberglass and have found it to flake off later for different reasons, usually cleanliness/temp. The clear-coat epoxy takes longer to set up but it's pretty darn useful. As with any of these things they depend highly on cleanliness and surface prep.

Tony
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Post by Ken g on Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:35 pm

Are you not seeing my posts ?

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Post by Ben Delk on Sun Mar 03, 2013 9:37 am

Ken g said:
Are you not seeing my posts ?


Hey Ken, who are you asking? I see your post at the top of the thread. I decided to follow conventional wisdom and used super glue. Turned out pretty well.

Thanks,
Ben
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Post by GaryRabbitt on Tue Jun 11, 2013 1:04 am

Hi Ben, just found time to check back in here Smile
I think you have done well on your repair. The only true way to stop a crack is to drill a hole at the end of the crack. Then it won't travel anymore. That is not feasable on the radio cabinet though. We've done that on metal and other materials though.
Dancing Bear, the reason the fiberglass peels off is because the surface it's applied to is slick, hence the reason to scarify (scar) the smooth surface to provide a rough grip. I've applied epoxy and other materials to a slick surface, and each time is will peel right off. The epoxy holds itself together, but did not grip the cabinet.

Ben, just a rough grinding of the surface is needed, no need to cut a groove behind the crack. I use a rough stone on the Dremel to make the roughness. When the epoxy or fiberglass is applied, it woll flow out so outer surface is smooth, blending into the smooth non repair area.
I think your repair will be good for many more years. That Plaskon is funny stuff, and the more you fool with it, the worse things can become.
If there was a solvent that would eat into the Plaskon, then there would be other ways to repair the stuff. Same with Bakelite.
A styrene cabinet is easily repaired using styrene glue, like the old model cement. It melts the plastic together.
Gotta run, take care!



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