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Califone Tube Player barely spinning

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Post by PhonoBrit Tue Jan 08, 2013 4:43 pm

Califone 16VP2-5 Tube record player. Platter is barely spinning. Idler wheel still feels soft, have you guys worked on one of these before? Picture below:

Califone Tube Player barely spinning XqpiE


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Post by Bill Cahill Tue Jan 08, 2013 8:31 pm

First, how is the pull? Is it pulling well, or, is turntable very easy to stop?
Next, when off, can you spin turn table freely by hand?
If not, gummy.
Next, is motor running fast? Or, does it sound sluggish, act wrong? Wehn off, can you easily spin armature by hand, and, will it spin easily? If not, gummy motor bearings. If turn table slips while on then it's slipping on idler wheel.
Bill Cahill

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Post by PhonoBrit Mon Jan 28, 2013 1:42 pm

After running for an hour, it is almost up to speed. Like I said in the first post, the idler wheel is pretty soft.

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Post by Wildcat445 Mon Jan 28, 2013 1:51 pm

My Newcomb TR-16A was like that. I had lubed, cleaned, and did all I knew to do. After running for about an hour, the speed seemed pretty close, but the motor got so hot I could not touch it. That was my main concern. After reading that the only PROPER way to remedy the situation was to dis-assemble the motor, that is what I had to do. I soaked the bearings in lacquer thinner and got all the old goop out of the bearings. I re-lubed the bearings with 0w20 Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil, and all is well. Turbine oil is not available where I live, so Mobil 1 was my best option. Problem solved. The motor runs so cool, that it barely gets warm after running a couple hours. The tubes provide more heat now than the motor develops.

Regards

WC

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Post by PhonoBrit Mon Jan 28, 2013 2:23 pm

Yes! The motor got super hot. I am trying to disassemble the motor but I cannot loosen the allen head nut as the motor just turns when I try to loosen the nut. I enclose a picture.

Califone Tube Player barely spinning ZUqDB4r

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Post by Wildcat445 Mon Jan 28, 2013 5:34 pm

The picture is really huge, and I cannot see the Allen head nut you are talking about. The only thing I see is a hex headed bolt. Am I missing something?

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WC

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Post by PhonoBrit Mon Jan 28, 2013 5:46 pm

Wildcat445 wrote:The picture is really huge, and I cannot see the Allen head nut you are talking about. The only thing I see is a hex headed bolt. Am I missing something?

Regards

WC
My apologies, yes the hex head bolt. Not allen bolt.

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Post by Wildcat445 Mon Jan 28, 2013 6:10 pm

That hex headed bolt appears to be a motor mount bolt. There should be more of them. If it is a motor mount bolt, the motor should not turn when turning that bolt. I am afraid that I still am missing something. A smaller, more detailed picture would help. How is the motor turning? Is the motor shaft turning or the entire body of the motor?

Regards

WC

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Post by PhonoBrit Mon Jan 28, 2013 6:11 pm

No, the hex head bolt is the top of the motor spindle. See the rubber below it, that turns the plastic wheels which in turn drive the idler wheel.

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Post by Wildcat445 Mon Jan 28, 2013 7:38 pm

Maybe there is a way to lock the motor rotor. Look on the opposite end of the drive for some way to do this. I think I would have the old impact gun out so that this hex bolt could be spun out. Good luck on this one. With a toothed lock washer, it was not intended to come loose easily. I certainly wish I could get a better look at this thing. I am having a hard time trying to figure out what the next step is. Could you get us a picture of the lower end of the motor and more detail on the end you are showing?

Regards

WC

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Post by PhonoBrit Tue Jan 29, 2013 4:27 pm

This is the underside of the motor.
https://i.imgur.com/CBAlJjK.jpg

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Post by PhonoBrit Tue Jan 29, 2013 4:38 pm

Here is a picture showing idler wheel, plastic wheels and motor spindle in the center of the plastic drive wheels.
https://i.imgur.com/X1Bvq2f.jpg

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Post by Wildcat445 Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:02 pm

Ah ha. Got it. Now this makes sense.

If you will look at the bottom of the motor, you will see a series of holes in the motor housing. There are larger, outer, holes, looks like about 1/2 inch in diameter, all along the edge. Then there are two or three smaller holes, between the outer holes and the bearing. My guess would be, that if you look inside those three small holes, that there is an indentation in the motor rotor that you can use to lock the rotor. Stick a thin punch into the small hole and engage the indentation in the rotor. This should lock the rotor sufficiently to allow the hex bolt on the turret end to be removed. Failing the above, an automotive repair shop mechanic should have a 3/8" drive impact wrench that could easily remove and re-install the hex bolt without necessarily locking the rotor. Industrial fans with screw-on blades require this rotor locking method to remove the fan blades. I have seen this setup before, just not on a record player. My Newcomb has a tapered shaft on the motor and does not have that more complicated, and "breakdownable" plastic turret. Good luck with that.

Regards

WC

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Post by Bill Cahill Tue Jan 29, 2013 6:11 pm

Looks to me that there should be a rubber tire on the motor shaft to drive the plastic wheels. Metal cannot drive plastic.
Sure makes me glad I don't have any Califones.
Bill Cahill

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Post by Wildcat445 Tue Jan 29, 2013 6:51 pm

There is a little rubber ring under the hex nut. You have to look really closely to see it. I thought the same thing first time I looked. I, too, am glad that I don't have a turret like that. Looks like I could break it REALLY easily.

Regards

WC

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Post by Guest Tue Jan 29, 2013 7:06 pm

Looks like a pretty elegant design to manufacture. If you consider that the player would be expected to last not more than 10 years at the most, to give good service only until the next new thing came down the pike. It probably did well for getting a lot of product out to a lot of customers.

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Post by PhonoBrit Wed Jan 30, 2013 4:06 pm

Alright, I give up with this thing. Do you guys know of any shop in the midwest that will work on this kind of unit?

Thanks!

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Post by Guest Wed Jan 30, 2013 4:28 pm

Is there any chance that the hex head fastener is reverse threaded?

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Post by Bill Cahill Wed Jan 30, 2013 6:02 pm

Now that you mention it, it might be reverse threaded.
In my umble opinion, there is something missing womewhere. Not sure just what, but, it's got to be simple. Hmmmm.
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Post by Guest Wed Jan 30, 2013 6:08 pm

I wonder if that is what the two C's are on the bolt head? Counter clockwise? The star washer also looks like the fins are bent this \ way as opposed to this/way.

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Post by Bill Cahill Wed Jan 30, 2013 6:11 pm

O.K. I think I've figured it out.
First, is the motor sloppy in it's mounts. In other words can you push up from bottom of motor a fair amount?
Looks to me like the rubber motor mounts have shrunk. Motor is hanging down. It needs to go up so the rubber part of the colar rides plastic wheels.
Looks to me like it's barely touching the edge of it, and, making lousy contact.
Bill Cahill

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Post by Wildcat445 Thu Jan 31, 2013 11:48 am

All the reverse-threaded bolts that I have had experience with had an "R" on the head.

Regards

WC

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