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Stewart Warner 13-6p1

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Stewart Warner 13-6p1 Empty Stewart Warner 13-6p1

Post by Ben Delk on Sat Jun 23, 2012 4:27 pm

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/323/M0020323.htm

Found this radio last week and recapped it this morning. Besides the fact someone re-engineered the speaker with a new type and trashed the orginal, I had an issue with the dial lamp not coming on. The lamp socket, and wiring tested good. It was pulling power from the rectf (35z5GT) so I tested all the pin voltage and all were good. I pulled the tube and found a short piece of wire wrapped around pins 2 & 3 on the tube. Removed the wire and bingo the light came on. There has to be a reason why someone would do this but I see no deficiency the the radios operation without it. Anyone care to speculate on the reason it would be there?
Ok, well I have this update to add. When I remove the lamp from the socket the radio loses power. It is acting like a fuse. Looks like there is more to this than I thought. Any ideas?
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Post by Bill Cahill on Sun Jun 24, 2012 12:41 am

The only reason I could see is if a rectifier had part of the filament burned out where dial lamp connects, it might have been burning out the lamp.
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Post by Ben Delk on Sun Jun 24, 2012 9:01 am

The schematic calls for 6 to 8 volt lamp. The voltage on the 2 pins for the lamp socket is running around 14 volt. The resistors in that line are all within tolerance. May be time for another rectf tube.
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Post by Resistance is Futile on Mon Jun 25, 2012 2:19 am

Just to be sure I wonder if the lamp draws enough current when lit to lower the voltage?, wast this voltage tested with the lamp on? To schematic listed voltage? So pull out the tube and test the filament first then center tap for resistance to both legs. Most tube manuals emphasize that the lamp is used as a ballast for the filament and that the plate is also connected to the filament through a resistor. Kinda funny of the two legs shorted unless it was done to help the filament life without a working lamp at the time. Just my guess though.
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Post by Bill Cahill on Mon Jun 25, 2012 6:37 am

No, it doesn't. The lamp is accross a 6 volt poftion of the filament. If it burns out, things stay the same.
It raises current draw some to have a working bulb in.
But, no change in voltage either way.

However, there were some odd ball radios where they put the bulb in series with the plate. That didn't work well.
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Post by Ben Delk on Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:11 am

So you think this was done so the owner did not have to change the lamp? I'm still trying to figure out why the shematic calls for a 6volt lamp on a two wire socket with nearly 16 volt as a power supply. If I put a 6.3 bulb in it blows right away. The voltage across the pins to the lamp socket is right around 15.5. I put a 14 volt bulb in the socket and it works fine, does not over heat, actually the bulb was still cool to the touch after 12 hour burn in. So it looks like I have two choices here. Leave jumper across the tube pins and have no lamp, or leave the 14 volt bulb in the 2 wire socket, have light and a built in fuse. # 2 sounds like a better choice. Something just not right here.......I'll dig around somemore but in the meantime the cabinet needs refinishing.
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Post by Bill Cahill on Mon Jun 25, 2012 11:04 am

Keep in mind that the jumper wire is shorting out that part of the filament, making the radio run hotter... What's the good in that?
What's the number of both the tube, and, the light bulb.?
Also, need to know tube line up of set. If it is a six tube radio with say a 35L6 for audio output, it's better to put a 50L6 in place of that. When these radios were wired up, they were wired up for 115-117 volts.
Putting the higher voltage tube in makes it good for about 130 volts. The radio takes just a little bit longer to warm up, but, does just as well, and, the filaments aren't being torchered on today's higher line voltage.
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Post by Ben Delk on Mon Jun 25, 2012 11:49 am

Keep in mind that the jumper wire is shorting out that part of the filament, making the radio run hotter... What's the good in that?
• None that I see, so I have removed it.

What's the number of both the tube, and, the light bulb.?
• 35Z5GT tube , GE 47 lamp 6.3 but I have 14volt
in it now.
Also, need to know tube line up of set.
• Tube line-up> 35z5GT rect, 35L6GT output, 12SQ7 2nd det, 12sa7 1st det,12J5GT osc, 12SK7 IF
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Post by Bill Cahill on Mon Jun 25, 2012 12:00 pm

I'd reccommend staying with original six volt bulb, and, replacing 35L6 with a 50L6.
Tubes will last longer.
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Post by Ben Delk on Mon Jun 25, 2012 12:12 pm

When I put a 6 volt in, it blows immediately.
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Post by Bill Cahill on Mon Jun 25, 2012 6:31 pm

O.K. That means the filament tap on the 35Z5 is burned out. The bulb is taking all the load.
Replace the tube.
Now I know why the jumper wire. It was so they could use the burned out tube.
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Post by Ben Delk on Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:15 pm

It would appear that way. I'll replace when I get one and see what happens. Thanks
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Post by Ben Delk on Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:39 pm

Found a 35Z5 in a junker, swapped it out....bingo 6volt bulb works now and I can remove the bulb and the radio still plays. Now that was a really odd side affect. Oh....swapped out the 35L6 with a 50L6. Not sure which one made the difference but now the speaker even sounds better.

Thanks again.
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Post by Bill Cahill on Mon Jun 25, 2012 11:00 pm

No problem. Always glad to help.
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