1962 Victor restoration

Yes, it looks like I would need tools/knowledge I don't have.
To update: In the amp I replaced the big can- 100uF plates/47uF screens/47uf 6FQ7/47(63v cathode bypass).
I replaced the 15k power feed to the 6FQ7 but left the drifted plate resistors alone. One was still 100k spec actually, one was 120k. I'm fine with that.
Sounds real good, the bass response is deeper & less muddy.
Next, to the tuner, rish me ruck......

Done. The IF feed resistors were both 5.6k, I replaced those w/ 4.7ks. There was only one last electrolytic, a 2uF in the FM detector, I replaced it with a 4.7uf since that was all I had.

The preamp feeds were surprisingly close to spec so they stayed.

The FM performance is noticeably better, and I get a nice strong signal with AFC on (what is that anyway?) tho it's still a little touchy when dialing my station in. It may be a weak station, the commercial ones come in very well...
It's on in the other room, loud as it will go, and it sounds so much better than my SS stereo system.
Thanks repairtech, Bill, Gary Rabbitt and everyone else for sitting on me about the lytics and everything else.

Yer welcome....
Bill Cahill

firemedic wrote:The FM performance is noticeably better, and I get a nice strong signal with AFC on (what is that anyway?) tho it's still a little touchy when dialing my station in.

AFC = Automatic Frequency Control

You turn it OFF to tune in a station..
Once you get tuned properly (tuning eye closed), you turn the AFC ON.
This NOW locks the tuning, keeping it from drifting off-station (tubes as they warm up tend to drift)

Boy, can I attest to that!
I have a 1959 Motorola am-fm table radio that DOES NOT have AFC, and, BOY, does it drift!
Bill Cahill

Well Bill, it's not impossible to implement "AFC" into such things.
AFC basically is a "centering" voltage that is taken off the discriminator, and fed back to the local oscillator.

When a station drifts, the voltage changes, causing the oscillator to "drift back" in line.

The circuit is common among most radio tuners, and a little probing of schematics might just come up with a suitable "add-on".

Thanks. I don't have any of the later schematics, so, not much probing I can do.
If I get the model of the radio, could you look it up in Sams, and, find me an easy to build workable schematic for me? Could the switch be put on the back cover?
Are wire lenghths crittical?
Placement?
Thanks for your help.
Bill Cahill

If I had the specific schematic of that radio I might be able to design something.

Most likely, 2 resistors,a .047 cap, and a germanium diode is all that's needed.
Wiring is not critical, a switch can be placed anywhere.