Testing a Mercury Vapor Fixture

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Testing a Mercury Vapor Fixture

Post by tuberadiogeek on Fri 31 Jul - 14:23

I just was able to nab an older Mercury Vapor Light Fixture, but it's missing the twist lock photo cell. I was curious if there is a way to bypass the sensor to see if it will turn on or is there some type of test I can do with an ohm meter to be certain it will work? I would just buy a photo cell but that means I'd have to spend 2.00 on two bus rides and have to spend almost an hour in there waiting for the bus to come back. I got it for 2.25 and a brand new 175 watt bulb for 2.00. If the fixture is in working condition I will have a great light for under 12.00 once I buy a photo cell.
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Re: Testing a Mercury Vapor Fixture

Post by 75X11 on Fri 31 Jul - 17:52

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=twist+lock+photocell+diagram&view=detailv2&&id=3060EA6264DCDB8266C1FA78223D967C2569CAEC&selectedIndex=1&ccid=uhOwJfY1&simid=608043464259603704&thid=JN.90SbCLdOCiti4orfEdWY%2bA&ajaxhist=0
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Re: Testing a Mercury Vapor Fixture

Post by tuberadiogeek on Fri 31 Jul - 21:20

I tried bypassing it on the socket and couldn't get it to turn on. So when I can afford it I'll get a photocell and try it. If it doesn't work then I will just assume the ballast is bad and direct wire the socket. Then I will get either a 200 watt incandesent or equivelant CFL as long as it's a self-ballasting bulb like the medium base ones. A MV bulb would be nice but I don't mind putting a incandesent or CFL in it since I actually only paid 75 cents for it(I figured it wrong earlier).
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Re: Testing a Mercury Vapor Fixture

Post by tuberadiogeek on Sat 1 Aug - 15:21

Took it apart so I could actually see the wires and was certain I had a good connection. Checked for voltage and was only getting 3 milivolts regardless if I had the photocell bypassed. So it seems the ballast is no good. So I'm going to get a 300 watt incandesent to use in it.
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