Help!!!

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Re: Help!!!

Post by 35Z5 on Tue Jul 22, 2014 5:39 pm

75X11 wrote:Any acid core solder, also silver solder. There are also low temperature solder formulations that wouldn't be compatible with the necessity for high temperatures that come with the larger mass joints that the older sets use. E.g. the solder would run out of a chassis ground connection or a large wire bundle. The low temp stuff is for hot air soldering. If you steer toward electronic grade solder of the alloy mix that was asked about, it should be just right.

True but the statement Bill made about avoiding modern solder is totally confusing, would leave a unknowing person thinking he can't use anything made today...

The absolute best is the 63/37 mix, can be bought at about any electrical supply house... So MODERN solders are not to be avoided... It's about choosing the correct solder, which applies today same as it would have 40, 50, 60, or more years ago...
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Re: Help!!!

Post by 75X11 on Tue Jul 22, 2014 7:41 pm

A good source for solder and accessories such as flux is MCM Electronics.
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Re: Help!!!

Post by Wildcat445 on Tue Jul 22, 2014 10:56 pm

I wonder if solder gets "old" and is tougher to work with. I have been using a big spool of Kester solder I have had probably 30 years. I find myself having to use flux to get it to flow on larger joints.

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Re: Help!!!

Post by 75X11 on Tue Jul 22, 2014 11:46 pm

I usually use flux anyway, so the solders' age has made no difference. The cleanliness of the prepared joint makes a difference.
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Re: Help!!!

Post by 35Z5 on Wed Jul 23, 2014 3:01 am

Wildcat445 wrote:I wonder if solder gets "old" and is tougher to work with. I have been using a big spool of Kester solder I have had probably 30 years. I find myself having to use flux to get it to flow on larger joints.

WC

I have solder that was old 30 years ago that is still fine... Rarely do I use any added flux, but surely can't hurt... I do spend time cleaning lugs on terminal strips, cleaning the leads on older components, even cleaning the solder it's self...
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Re: Help!!!

Post by Doug Burskey on Wed Jul 23, 2014 1:23 pm

22 or 20 gauge, the power cord is usually 18 gauge

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Re: Help!!!

Post by Wildcat445 on Wed Jul 23, 2014 1:24 pm

Are you referring to the lead-free solder? I have not used any of that. I still have enough old stuff around to do me for several more years.

I bought a 60 watt iron from Radio Shack that they had on sale for $9.99. That helps a lot. I was using a 30 watt, and it sometimes took a long time to melt large joints.

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Re: Help!!!

Post by 75X11 on Fri Jul 25, 2014 5:58 pm

I did a little online searching and found that there is indeed a ban on the use of solder in new plumbing installations, where the joints would be used in the culinary water systems. It is apparently grandfathered in for old system repairs. There is also a push in the electronic industry to reduce the amount of lead used in solder formulations. The other components of electronic solders are toxic metals also, so the outright ban of lead in electronic applications has not been a practical move, although there are lead free solders available.
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Re: Help!!!

Post by Guest on Sat Jul 26, 2014 12:17 am

For what it's worth, several years back, maybe 7 or 8, Samsung telephone system power supplies had a change in solder to one that was now lead free. These power supplies have a small green label on them stating the supply is lead free.

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Re: Help!!!

Post by Guest on Sat Jul 26, 2014 12:20 am

On July 1, 2006 the European Union Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment Directive (WEEE) and Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive (RoHS) came into effect prohibiting the inclusion of significant quantities of lead in most consumer electronics produced in the EU. Manufacturers in the U.S. may receive tax benefits by reducing the use of lead-based solder. Lead-free solders in commercial use may contain tin, copper, silver, bismuth, indium, zinc, antimony, and traces of other metals. Most lead-free replacements for conventional Sn60/Pb40 and Sn63/Pb37 solder have melting points from 5 to 20 C higher,[11] though solders with much lower melting points are available.



I think all the confusion has to do with a requirement to reduce the amount of lead solder, not ban it all together.

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Re: Help!!!

Post by frank1956 on Sat Jul 26, 2014 1:05 pm

Just an update!!!!! Received a NOS 12AV6 tube in the mail today. Will post new pic's tomorrow with the modifications suggested by WC in a previous post. Hopefully after all is said and done this will work, Keeping my fingers crossed!!!!!!
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Re: Help!!!

Post by Wildcat445 on Sat Jul 26, 2014 2:53 pm

I had to go back a couple pages to find out where we were with your radio, Frank. I'm not sure what "modifications" I recommended. I think you mean cleaning up the tape and stuff like that. The recommendation was made to sub the 12AV6 to see what happens. I sure wish you luck on that.

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Re: Help!!!

Post by frank1956 on Sat Jul 26, 2014 7:19 pm

WC,
That was what I meant the clean up of the electrical tape etc. I did not sub the 12AV6 just got another one. Will see what happens.
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Re: Help!!!

Post by Wildcat445 on Sun Jul 27, 2014 10:30 am

"Sub" is short for "substitute." Put your "new" 12AV6 in and let us know what happens.

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Re: Help!!!

Post by frank1956 on Mon Jul 28, 2014 6:09 pm

WC, Tom and all that have assisted me with this radio I do appreciated your help. I made the necessary correction and replaced the 12AV6 tube out, but unfortunately no good results. Still the same guess this will have to be laid to rest until I run across one of you or have someone look at it. Not sure what else to do. I even went back and re-checked the voltage reading all pretty much the same as before. Again I thanks you for your time and patients.

Frank
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Re: Help!!!

Post by Wildcat445 on Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:18 pm


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Re: Help!!!

Post by frank1956 on Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:44 pm

WC,
Thanks. Don't mean to be ungrateful , but remember GREEN HORN no electronic experience here, I would not even know were to begin if I had one.

Frank
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Re: Help!!!

Post by Wildcat445 on Mon Jul 28, 2014 9:31 pm

You are hardly a "green horn." You have come a long way. We can help you learn how to use a signal generator. We all had to learn the same way---trial and error. You will need one eventually. No way around it. You gotta remember you did not have a meter when you started. Perhaps a member has an extra they would sell. You need to keep an eye out for an isolation transformer. Don't lose hope. We will try to figure a way around this little hurdle.

WC

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Re: Help!!!

Post by frank1956 on Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:26 am

Thanks. I will keep my eye out for one.
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Re: Help!!!

Post by Guest on Tue Jul 29, 2014 11:11 am

Frank, I'm not too far from you. (Ruckersville) maybe we could meet one day an you can get some basic equipment from me. I know I can help you with a reasonably priced analog meter. I collect Radio Shack Micronta items and have many meters, still new in box along with some slightly used. I also have 4 variac's so I can sell one of those at a reasonable price as well. This way there will be no shipping chage and you can see, feel and touch what you are buying.

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Re: Help!!!

Post by Wildcat445 on Tue Jul 29, 2014 11:42 am

It is good of you to offer to help, MR MEZ! Very Happy

Frank needs a signal generator. I have a couple I'm not using, but they need work. He also could use an isolation transformer, since he is working on a hot chassis set.

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Re: Help!!!

Post by frank1956 on Wed Jul 30, 2014 3:45 pm

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Re: Help!!!

Post by Wildcat445 on Thu Jul 31, 2014 10:01 am

Yep, it sure would. I use a Precision 200-C from the 1930's (?) all the time. I have a couple military ones, from WW2 era as well. Make sure you get the probes with whatever you buy.

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Re: Help!!!

Post by frank1956 on Fri Aug 01, 2014 11:32 am

Signal generator purchased, should be here on or before the 7th of this month. EICO Signal Generator Model 324 with probes.
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Re: Help!!!

Post by Wildcat445 on Fri Aug 01, 2014 3:35 pm

Signal Generator 101 is next if you need that. Hopefully, others will chime in here and we can get you on the right track. Signal generators are cool. You will have a ball just messing with one, as well as fixing radios with it. That 324 is as good as they made. You'll be a well-experienced radio repairman after all this. You started out with a radio that is trying to be difficult. You could not possibly have found a better one to learn on.

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Re: Help!!!

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