Bit By Bit

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Tue Aug 26, 2014 11:33 am

Doesn't have anything to do with emissions, tank vent is as conventional as your '76, feeds to a charcoal canister... For FI it's purged into the intake, the carb has line from canister fed into the air cleaner... Or at least it's supposed to, possibly wasn't on F250 till around 1980, but was on passenger cars and F-100 from '72 or so... Not really known but the F-150 was created to side step some of the emissions requirements of F100, that had a slightly less payload...

It's all because of the return fuel system that circulates fuel back to the tank(s), the system is fine excepting when having to keep basically what is two fuel systems separated... The newer two tank systems without a fuel return aren't much more complicate than a carb...

As far as which is better, unless one tunes a carb to the inth degree they'll never match FI... Even if you did tune a carb for best fuel mileage, emissions, and performance, your local 3000ft elevation calibration would be off here on the coast...
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by Guest on Tue Aug 26, 2014 1:19 pm

feeds to a charcoal canister... For FI it's purged into the intake

And there it is, all do to higher emission standards.

Prior to my '76 there wasn't a solenoid to switch the valve. The valve was mounted on the floor board between the seat and the drivers door. No fuel pumps means no problems. The fuel pumps are needed for fuel injection and fuel injection is used to meet emission standards! Some of the early FI trucks with two tanks (my Dad's '87) had 3 fuel pumps, What a nightmare!!!!

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by Guest on Tue Aug 26, 2014 1:24 pm

As far as which is better, unless one tunes a carb to the inth degree they'll never match FI... Even if you did tune a carb for best fuel mileage, emissions, and performance, your local 3000ft elevation calibration would be off here on the coast...

Agreed but my elevation (1440) is half of what you stated. I'll never get the fuel mileage with any of my normally aspirated but I love my 3X2 390!

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Tue Aug 26, 2014 2:25 pm

MEZLAW wrote:feeds to a charcoal canister... For FI it's purged into the intake

And there it is, all do to higher emission standards.

Prior to my '76 there wasn't a solenoid to switch the valve. The valve was mounted on the floor board between the seat and the drivers door.   No fuel pumps means no problems.  The fuel pumps are needed for fuel injection and fuel injection is used to meet emission standards!  Some of the early FI trucks with two tanks (my Dad's '87)  had 3 fuel pumps, What a nightmare!!!!

Actually as much if not more so for CAFE(Corporate Average Fuel Economy)... The lower emissions is a side benefit of the improved MPG, which ranges from 20 to 30% better than the average carb...

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by Guest on Tue Aug 26, 2014 5:22 pm

OK.....yes CAFE also, it's STILL GOVERNMENT MANDATES.

You win, lets talk about something else! Very Happy

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:31 pm

MEZLAW wrote:
You win, lets talk about something else!  Very Happy

OK how about my new rear tank fuel pump install???

Decided I couldn't live with not knowing how much fuel was actually in the tank(s) so ordered a new Delphi pump from ebay... Got a screaming deal, $89.50 OBO shipped, so I offered $85.00 and got it, same pump from Advance is $155...

Shot with tank pulled..


Tank as removed..


Cleaned a bit and pump assembly removed


Compairing new & old pump assembles, at one time the orig was white as well... Hanger/fuel line and float assembly must be transferred from orig... Yes the whole assembly can be purchased but that's approx $150 - $175 minimum...


Transfer complete, well almost


Old pump assembly opened, the check valves to route fuel are built into housing and not serviceable... Round steel item is actual pump and all I'll replace in single tank fuel systems...


The new pump is installed back in the tank but that's as far as I got today, should be far easier getting it back together than apart


To be continued...
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:40 pm

Ebay is always a good buy when you can plan a purchase. Good job!
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Fri Aug 29, 2014 11:02 pm

75X11 wrote:Ebay is always a good buy when you can plan a purchase.  Good job!

Very true...

I'll probably repl front pump as well but wanted to see if this fixes the fuel being pulled from rear tank into front... Prior to about three weeks ago front was transferring fuel to rear which I could monitor level because rear tank gauge works... Without a front gauge(just needs float) and rear tank sucked bone dry, I had no idea how much fuel was actually in it...
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Sat Aug 30, 2014 12:38 am

And the odometer makes a creepy gas gauge. Smile
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Sat Aug 30, 2014 2:25 pm

Well tank is back in place, off to the gas station too see if it actually works(If I had doubts I'd dump gas in it here)...
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Sat Aug 30, 2014 6:27 pm

Well new pump works fine, will be a few days till I know if my fuel transfer problem has stopped, reverted to prev or still drawing from both tanks...
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Mon Sep 01, 2014 2:59 pm

I think it's fixed, at almost 80mi of running on front tank, fuel level in rear is still approx where it was at new pump install...
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Mon Sep 01, 2014 3:31 pm

Sounds good, good luck with it! I've just started to get things together to put a bedliner coating down.
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Mon Sep 01, 2014 11:03 pm

The paint is beat in my bed so a liner would really improve it's looks, but I bought it mostly because it had been used a work truck and scrap hauler, not going to mess with it... Got a load of scrap metal to take to the recyclers in the next week or two..
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Mon Sep 15, 2014 11:02 pm

35Z5 wrote:I think it's fixed, at almost 80mi of running on front tank, fuel level in rear is still approx where it was at new pump install...

Still OK...

After a few days I filled both tanks and run rear down to half tank, now have approx another 125mi on front tank, rear still at ˝...
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Tue Sep 16, 2014 12:10 am

Sounds like you got it!
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by Guest on Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:35 am

Well now I have a coolant leak in the '05 Taurus! It turns out to be ever so slight from the heater core. At 208,000 miles I'm not excited about fixing it! If it was spring I would put some Bars in it to plug the leak, but with winter coming on I don't want to end up without defrosters.

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:03 am

Sure it's not leaking at the hose?
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by Guest on Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:31 am

Yes, I'm sure, I had it up on a friends lift where we could get a good look. Just my kind of luck. Unlike the old cars, the carpet does not get wet, there is a pan under the heater core with the same drain as the AC. This is an 8 hour job and I'm not sure the car is worth it.

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Tue Sep 16, 2014 12:05 pm

I see. My truck drains the same way, but the core slides down through the opening when the pan is removed. They can be tough in the passenger cars.
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Tue Sep 16, 2014 1:59 pm

Look on the Taurus forums and see if anyone has cut the outside of the housing or firewall for access... Not something I'd normally do but on a beater that has maybe a couple of years...

Years back I had a '67 Falcon with leaking H/C, well it was cold and I wanted heat so I just cut the fittings off the A/C evap and connected heater hoses to it... Made for a Hellacious heater, air was so hot it'd burn your fingers... We rode around in Jan & Feb with the windows down...

BTW Yes Falcons with A/C were rare, but I was planning on junking it in the spring anyway(which I did)...
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by Guest on Tue Sep 16, 2014 2:18 pm

75X11 wrote:I see.  My truck drains the same way, but the core slides down through the opening when the pan is removed.  They can be tough in the passenger cars.

They can be tough in old Ford pickups too.  I have to unbolt the middle and right side of the dash in order to get the heating unit out. Then replace the core in that.  There are bolts and screws on the inside of the cab as well as on the firewall under the hood. I have not changed a heater core in a car newer than the mid 1960's.

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by Wildcat445 on Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:35 pm

You have to take the right bucket seat and the console, as well as most of the instrument panel out of my '63 Electra to change the heater core. Ford does not have a lock on ridiculous heater core positioning.

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Tue Sep 16, 2014 7:15 pm

On my '88 Bronco II, You removed 3 screws below the core. this removed the catch and drain, then there was 1 bolt that hung the core on the firewall/plenum, remove it, drain the system and disconnect the hoses and drop it out.
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by Guest on Wed Sep 17, 2014 10:11 pm

Why can't they all be like the '88 Bronco. No

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Re: Bit By Bit

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