Bit By Bit

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by kb4yrc on Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:03 am

Wonder how they trained " Lassie " &" Rin-Tin-Tin" to deal with gunshots ? ..... Gregg

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Sat Jul 26, 2014 4:42 pm

Well, it's doing better with it's mileage. Worked on the paint around the doors that was oxidized and put about 3 coats of wax on the areas.checked some of the filled roof seams and painted some flowable silicone into the cracked areas.
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:59 am

Looks (and sounds) like the starter failed yesterday. I am doing an online order and store pickup for the next one. They offer a 15% discount and a $25 off of a $50 purchase certificate to do this. Now to see if the rain can hold off long enough to get this done.
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Fri Aug 01, 2014 12:19 pm

Always something... Last winter the starter on mine sounded like it was crushing walnuts, I need to do something about that before it gets cold this winter...

At the moment I have a leaking radiator, need to swap that out... I got a new one last Fri but haven't had time till today to do so and it's raining... Crying or Very sad
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Fri Aug 01, 2014 12:39 pm

At least it is cheaper than a car note. Mine would just click once and pull the battery down. I just got the starter. Thankfully with the gear reduction it is a little unit. I had to change the starter on a '81 Olds Toronado with a diesel engine that I had 20 years ago. That was a job! It was as big as 1-1/2 of the old big ones.
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by Guest on Fri Aug 01, 2014 1:22 pm

Make sure you count the teeth on the new starter to ensure they sent the right one or you'll be buying and changing a flywheel too!   Wink

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Fri Aug 01, 2014 2:13 pm

I will. Sounds like some hard won advice!  Very Happy 
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Fri Aug 01, 2014 2:37 pm

MEZLAW wrote:Make sure you count the teeth on the new starter to ensure they sent the right one or you'll be buying and changing a flywheel too!   Wink

Basically if the snout length and bolt pattern are same, a Ford starter is a Ford starter... Except for some of the early/mid 60s std trans, all small block starters are same configuration and work on either 157 or 164 tooth flexplate/flywheels...

I have one of the late model reduction starters on my '72 Comet with C4 trans and 302, beats the old direct drive starters to a pulp... Used a '96 Ranger starter harness to wire it up, my '88 T-Bird is earmarked to get one as well... Even the three bolt FE big block starters will work on small blocks(not on early manuals, those are unique), with a bolt hole hanging in mid air... All 429/460 big block starters are different from small block or FE...
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by Guest on Fri Aug 01, 2014 4:30 pm

Even the three bolt FE big block starters will work on small blocks(not on early manuals, those are unique),

You also need the right bell housing for those! I believe 1964 was the last year for them.


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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Fri Aug 01, 2014 5:59 pm

Even with installing the new switch wire it wasn't too much more difficult than an oil change. It zaps the engine right up!
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Fri Aug 01, 2014 6:59 pm

MEZLAW wrote:Even the three bolt FE big block starters will work on small blocks(not on early manuals, those are unique),

You also need the right bell housing for those!  I believe 1964 was the last year for them.


Yeah I left out the FE pre '65 starters, those do use specific bell housing as the shaft & drive assembly must be 10" long(still have one someplace and one of those monster Olds Diesel starters that was mentioned)... I had a '81 Cutlass Cruiser Sta Wgn with the kero burner... Paid $300 for it off the local Pontiac dealers wholesale line one Feb morning when no one else could get it started(I got it started, yes it was sort of luck)... Spent maybe another $300 in five years I drove it, sold it, $300... Defiantly a $300 car...


The FE starters that will fit small block must be from '65-up and I believe the late starter will interchange with early FE but not of course not vice-versa...... The Small block starters would fit a FE but the drive actuator assembly/cover is clocked at approx 2 o'clock, so hits the block before bolts line up... The FE starter on small block clocks the actuator at approx 10 o'clock, so works fine...

The rain was sporadic so I got the radiator in, actually stopped for a couple hours...

Here's my F-150, looks good at 25ft...

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Sun Aug 03, 2014 2:54 pm

It does look nice. I have been having a coolant leak for the past couple of months. When I went to the auto parts store this morning, I put some paper towel in some likely locations to finally locate it. Looked when I got there, all was dry. When I got back I checked once again. The bit under the t-stat housing was wet. Back to the auto part store and got a housing that uses a O-ring seal. Just got done installing it. Hopefully this will last a while.
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Sat Aug 09, 2014 5:26 pm

There is still a leak in the t-stat housing area (or at least above the water pump) when the system gets up to full pressure. I am at a loss to figure out where it is. I have got a pressure tester and a UV Led lamp and when the weather settles down, I am going to find the leak.
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by Guest on Sat Aug 09, 2014 6:40 pm

On the older vehicles the fan would blow everything around so much it was hard to tell just where a leak was. A pressure test should do the trick.

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Sat Aug 09, 2014 6:54 pm

Plus being able to get the pressure up in a cold engine. I thought the tester would be a good investment as opposed to at least 1 hour's labor having it located once. The mustang's system has a very slow seep and I can get at least 2 birds with one stone.
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Sun Aug 10, 2014 7:52 am

Yeah a pressure tester is a handy piece to have, lucky I know someone that has one...

A leak around the thermostat housing may be intake manifold gasket(fairly common in vehicles with aluminum intake mated to iron heads), a heater hose or possibly in the small cooling hose to the throttlebody... When cold the heater hoses were weeping like a soaker hose when I first got mine...

The radiator had been leaking for awhile in my truck but apparently evaporated before it dripped... Finally it was leaving a pancake size puddle after setting over night but still wasn't dripping when hot... While it never overheated I can tell it's running a little cooler now, found the bottom nine cores were plugged with crud and Bars Leak... It had a new water pump when I bought it, apparently the owner had been trying to stop the leak so they could sell it...

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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Sun Aug 10, 2014 12:12 pm

It rained most of the early evening last night.  Woke up at 3 and set up the tester and brought it up to pressure.  Started getting a leak where I didn't expect. From one of the throttle body coolant lines.  It was at the point where the guy has his screwdriver on the clamp in the picture.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=96+ford+f150+302+throttle+body+diagram&qs=n&form=QBIR&pq=96+ford+f150+302+throttle+body+diagram&sc=0-0&sp=-1&sk=#view=detail&id=0A5D0F8ADE2D21FC911AACAC6ACFC299F1C5208F&selectedIndex=143
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Mon Aug 11, 2014 8:09 am

Replaced the hose yesterday between storms. Brought the UV flashlight along on the drive to work. Nice and dark around the affected area and it held full pressure. The good old bit 'o honeys smell is going away too.
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:43 am

2 more trips and the repaired area isn't leaking. There is a tiny seep at the pump end of the bypass hose. I need to put a good clamp on it.
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Mon Aug 25, 2014 4:27 pm

Took the truck and Mustang to get their emissions tests. Both went through like nobody's business.
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Mon Aug 25, 2014 9:45 pm

75X11 wrote:Took the truck and Mustang to get their emissions tests.  Both went through like nobody's business.  

'Missions huh?? We ain't bothered with that stuff, at 181K mi mine wouldn't likely pass anyway...

Recently I did replace the bumping LF tire, spark plugs and wires, plus treated it to a oil & filter change...

In the last three weeks it's gone from returning fuel from front to rear tank, to now drawing fuel from both tanks when running on the front tank... Knowing how the F150 two tank system functions, if someone told me that was happening I'd say impossible but without a doubt it is... A quick I-net search for this issue only turned up my previous problem...
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Mon Aug 25, 2014 9:55 pm

Try The F-150 forum for your year range, You'll probably see plenty on the subject...

www.ford-trucks.com.
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 35Z5 on Mon Aug 25, 2014 10:24 pm

Oh I know how to fix it, same as before latest issue, repl both pump/routing valve assemblies... Something is up with the valves and they aren't replaceable except as complete assemblies(plus gage dosn't operate on front tank)... As long as it isn't running the front tank over(yes that can happen), I'll probably keep using it as is...

Prior it was easy, run on rear tank till it was at 1/4, then run on front till it started stumbling from lack of fuel(tank empty) and switch back to rear that would then be at 3/4... Now if I run to 1/4 on rear, there isn't any fuel in it when I switch back from front...
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by 75X11 on Tue Aug 26, 2014 12:10 am

Pricing the parts made it an easy decision to let mine be. Mine will drain the front tank, then when the rear is selected it fills the front tank, then the rear can be filled. I made the mistake of using the rear while the front was full once.
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Re: Bit By Bit

Post by Guest on Tue Aug 26, 2014 10:26 am

You can thank all the emission crap for the complex setup. The fuel pumps don't help either. I have a 1976 F250 with two factory tanks, very simple setup and never any problems.

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Re: Bit By Bit

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