Where do you get your vehicle serviced?

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Where do you get your vehicle serviced? Empty Where do you get your vehicle serviced?

Post by Wildcat445 on Wed Nov 13, 2013 7:01 pm

I was in the auto repair business and was an ASE Master Certified Auto mechanic for 30 years.  Since I got out of the 'biz, I have had a tough time trying to find a competent auto repair facility.  At first, I took my car to my major competitor.  He did okay for a few years, until his son took over and who was basically dishonest.  So I started going to another shop whose owner I held in high regard.  Same story there.  He got hard up for cash and started cutting corners.  So now I go to the dealer exclusively.  I probably pay more, but I have zero problems.  The reason, I believe, is that GM keeps a fairly tight rein on its dealers with their CSI's and such.  GM does not want its dealers to hose one of its customers and drive them to Toyota or someone.  Independent shops do not have to be accountable to anyone.  If you have a problem, small claims court is your only option.  Or dragging some dude over his desk, frowned upon in polite society.  One time, I felt badly treated at a small Chevy dealer in Oklahoma.  I emailed GM and got free oil change coupons for the rest of my life and a certificate for $1000 off a new Chevy truck!  I get the oil changed in the Tahoe with synthetic oil free almost forever.  Where do you guys get your vehicles serviced and why?

Regards

WC

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Post by 75X11 on Wed Nov 13, 2013 8:51 pm

The last time I took a vehicle to a dealer was a local Olds dealer that I took my 1987 Olds Toronado. It had an intermittent failure of the ignition and would stop abruptly and would not start and a short while later, while there was no change in engine temp, it would start up and run. They took it in and kept it for 5 days. They billed me $830 for the repairs which appeared to be a unit by unit replacement of the engine management system. It promptly failed again the next day and 3 more days and $400 later, they got it right. I got rid of that car and immediately bought a 1973 ranchero with a 351M engine. That was 1997. I have mostly done the repairs myself, except when it requires shop facilities or special tools. I found an independent shop run by a family that advertised themselves as "honest mechanics" What do you know! It was true! I can look up a job using the shop manual and usually get the charge within $50 of the estimate. They refuse to fix anything that doesn't need it. Their place is constantly packed at two locations.
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Post by Wildcat445 on Wed Nov 13, 2013 9:07 pm

It takes all kinds I guess. I preached exactly what you are talking about for the major part of my life. After I closed my shop, I have found the exact opposite to be true. It is extremely easy to get ripped off here in AZ on car repairs. I have had horrible results with independent shops. I'm glad you have found a good one. You are lucky. I still have the knowledge to work on stuff, I just am not physically able to do much of it. Thanks for your reply.

Regards

WC

R

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Post by 75X11 on Wed Nov 13, 2013 9:14 pm

Believe me, I know I am lucky. I could never catch a break from a shop. I had a '71 Jeepster commando That I took in for emissions testing. They said it would cost $75 to fix it to pass. By the time I got home later in the day the news cameras were there while they were being shut down for selling emissions certifications for $40 apiece!Very Happy 
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Post by willy3486 on Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:45 pm

Here where I live its like the one eye man being a king in the land of blind people. I went to one fellow who was suppose to be good. I almost never got my truck back as he was driving it to "figure out the issue." I wound up having to fix the things I asked him to do. Then I found one guy and asked him to replace the oil cover gasket when he did work to my truck. He conveniently forgot and wanted me to bring it back again. Then I took a few cars to a local shop. They do fair work but one time I went to have my car aligned and the mechanic did not come in and no one else could do that. My wife got a fairly new Jeep and its cheaper to take it to them to get the oil change than for me to do it. I took my neon to them and have been pleased. Its about twice the price I can get local but its fixed.

I now have my father in laws 1970 chevy we are trying to get running. We bought it from her brother as he was letting it waste away. Their mother gave it to him. I found one fellow last year to rebuild my carb. He did a good job and I gave him a call on the truck. Its been 5 weeks now and he still has not showed up. So I am at the point now that we need it and to keep peace with the better half I may have to get someone else to fix it. Anymore here where I live you might luck up once with a mechanic then they get bad.

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Post by Wildcat445 on Wed Nov 13, 2013 11:01 pm

I could wade right thru that '70 Chevy. Is not that the pickup you mentioned awhile back? Glad you are going to get it going. They were great trucks. You'll have fun with it once you get it right.

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WC

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Post by willy3486 on Wed Nov 13, 2013 11:11 pm

The same truck. I got the brakes rebuilt,new hoses,rebuilt the gas system from the tank to the carb. It will not start. I tinkered with it tonight and found out it had no spark. I played with it for a while and I was able to finally get it to spark to a spark plug I had and I had a jumper to ground the threads of it. I turned it over and could see a spark in the dark. I sprayed a little carb cleaner in the carb. It tired to start. I may pour a little gas down the carb to see if it will run tomorrow. I think the carb is so dry it needs to be primered in the carb.

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Post by simplex1040 on Wed Nov 13, 2013 11:29 pm

I take it to my driveway I service my own cars. Had to replace a brake cylinder on the wife's car a few weeks ago, cost me $100 and some time ( i replaced the rear wheel bearing as well since I had to take it off to change the cylinder) her car has over 200K and mine has 190k on them.
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Post by Wildcat445 on Thu Nov 14, 2013 12:41 am

Do yourself a HUGE favor and put an Ignitor in the distributor of that truck. New ignition parts for a points distributor that are any good are non-existant. They are made in foreign third world countries and the quality is beyond horrible. Save yourself some grief and do that. Costs about $100 and takes ten minutes to install. IT replaces the points and condenser, in fact, uses the same screws. I used to work on my own stuff and everybody else's. Cancer ended all that. Just can't do it much anymore. I tinker with my Buick, but that is about it.

Regards

WC

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Post by willy3486 on Fri Nov 15, 2013 12:10 am

Wildcat445 wrote:Do yourself a HUGE favor and put an Ignitor in the distributor of that truck.  New ignition parts for a points distributor that are any good are non-existant.  They are made in foreign third world countries and the quality is beyond horrible.  Save yourself some grief and do that.  Costs about $100 and takes ten minutes to install.  IT replaces the points and condenser, in fact, uses the same screws.  I used to work on my own stuff and everybody else's.  Cancer ended all that.  Just can't do it much anymore.  I tinker with my Buick, but that is about it.

Regards

WC
I have been thinking about this. If I get one of these are they just screw in with no adjustment? Or will I have to adjust it like you do with points? I can't remember if I have ever replaced points and if I have I have forgotten it. On a side not I got it running tonight and after all the time it was parked it runs really smooth. Only problem I have seen is if I take my foot off the gas it will slow down and die. But if I give it a little gas it will stay running. Its like the idle is too low but I do have some air lines to the carb that needs replacement.

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Post by Tony V on Fri Nov 15, 2013 12:21 am

I've been in the auto repair business for the last 25 years so i service my own vehicles.
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Post by 75X11 on Fri Nov 15, 2013 10:06 am

willy3486 wrote:
Wildcat445 wrote:Do yourself a HUGE favor and put an Ignitor in the distributor of that truck.  New ignition parts for a points distributor that are any good are non-existant.  They are made in foreign third world countries and the quality is beyond horrible.  Save yourself some grief and do that.  Costs about $100 and takes ten minutes to install.  IT replaces the points and condenser, in fact, uses the same screws.  I used to work on my own stuff and everybody else's.  Cancer ended all that.  Just can't do it much anymore.  I tinker with my Buick, but that is about it.

Regards

WC
I have been thinking about this. If I get one of these are they just screw in with no adjustment? Or will I have to adjust it like you do with points? I can't remember if I have ever replaced points and if I have I have forgotten it. On a side not I got it running tonight and after all the time it was parked it runs really smooth. Only problem I have seen is if I take my foot off the gas it will slow down and die. But if I give it a little gas it will stay running. Its like the idle is too low but I do have some air lines to the carb that needs replacement.
I looked around and found this pictorial. I know, it's for a Ford, but It should give a good idea what's involved.

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/173_0310_pertronix_ignitor_ignition/viewall.html
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Post by Wildcat445 on Fri Nov 15, 2013 12:06 pm

If you have the normal Delco breaker distributor, an Ignitor is a bolt-in installation, with no adjustment. In fact, if the distributor shaft bushings are worn and the adjustment on breaker points is unstable, it will not adversely affect the Ignitor. You simply remove the points and condenser, and bolt in the Ignitor, with the same screws. You don't set dwell, but you do need to set the timing somewhat differently. I always set it at 36 degrees maximum advance at 1200 rpm, with all the advances in operation. Make sure that both the centrifugal and vacuum advances are working properly. An Ignitor allows my 10.25 to 1 compression Buick V-8 to run just fine on the 87 octane lamp oil that is sold nowadays for gasoline. It used to ping like crazy on 91 octane with breaker points. An Ignitor is the number one device on the market today that will help bring an older vehicle into the 21st century. I have three vehicles thus converted, including my old 1949 Ferguson tractor.

Regards

WC

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