Philco 70

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Philco 70

Post by willy3486 on Sat Mar 30, 2013 10:15 pm

I just became the owner of a Philco 70 today. The guy who brought out the amp for me to redo brought out a couple of table top cases, a radio with a missing speaker, reel tape player,record player and this philco. I fixed this and I traded the parts,labor for those items. I had been wanting one for a long time. I have tried to get one of each style of radio. I have plastic,bakelite, and wood tabletops, consoles, a radiola and a few others. Now this completes my collection of what I wanted except for a TRF if my atwater isn't one. . Its in rough shape as it was hit in the front and is missing some of the scroll work. I can reproduce it from the pieces of the layers still there. It does need a dial cover but I think I have one located I can pick up if all goes well in a couple of weeks. Other than that it looks to be complete.


Here is the front.







Here is the back.





It does have some rust that I need to deal with. I hope to take it apart and look at it soon. When I get it playing I will fix the case. I hope to get it going before too long. I have fixed others in worse shape. I plan on redoing this one, a small table like Zenith and my waterman scope this summer. The MILs house is finished so all my time taken up with that is almost done. I do have a lot I need to do around the house but I plan on doing some repairs also.

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Re: Philco 70

Post by Ben Delk on Mon Apr 01, 2013 8:32 am

Hope to add one of those to my collection as well. Ouch......that's a lot of rust. I recently picked up an RCA T-55. The cabinet was in great shape and actually still plays very well but the outside on the chassis is really rusted. I started with the naval jelly yesterday but it will take several applications for sure. Good luck with the 70.

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Re: Philco 70

Post by willy3486 on Mon Apr 01, 2013 8:44 am

I took the chassis out of the case. The rust you see is about all it has. Once I got it out I could tell there was not much more rust. as far as the chassis goes it looks to have had very little done to it. I think it will be fixable from the condition otherwise. Even thought the speaker grill fretwork is shot there is enough there that I can make a pattern. So I am not too worried on that.

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Philco 70 restoration, bakelite blocks

Post by dan88king on Sat Oct 19, 2013 3:42 pm

I have had one of these Philco 70's that had been restored and it looked and played great. The early 1930's Philcos have been favorites of mine. But one thing they have that is difficult to deal with is the bakelite blocks with capacitors potted inside, and in one case, a 250 ohm resistor. I have recapped them the hard way, unsoldering everything attached to one block at a time and digging out the insides, restuffing it with new components, and putting it all back together. The model 70 has five bakelite blocks.
But with a Philco 60 and a Philco 90, rough condition cabinets but restorable chassis's, I did something different that saves a huge amount of work. If you use the Rider's service information and know exactly what is in each block and what terminals it is connected to, then by reading the part number of the block on its side, you can use the following method to isolate the original leaky capacitors from the block's terminals.
Use a solder-sucker to remove all the solder from each small round "eyelet" where a capacitor lead comes out of the block, after disconnecting the end of that lead that is wrapped around one of the block's solder terminals sticking out sideways on top. The leads look sort of braided, as I recall. if you can get a lead free from the eyelet completely, as verified by holding it in the center and checking with an ohmmmeter set to a high range and getting a completely open or infinite reading between the lead itself and the eyelet metal, then that lead can be perminantly isolated by slipping a short length of very small diameter heat-shrink tubing over the lead and forcing it through the eyelet and down into the bakelite block as far as it will go. Heat-shrink it, cut off the excess to about a quarter of an inch, and that capacitor lead isolation is finished. When all the block's capacitor leads have been thus isolated, new capacitors can be soldered across the block's terminals, either from a side terminal to the ground screw, using a solder ring terminal, or some blocks have the cap running between side terminals and not to the ground, I think. Both the Philco 60 and Philco 90 played very well after this restoration. The model 70 also has capacitors that aren't in bakelite blocks, but in a metal can, and of course the tubular can electrolytics.

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Re: Philco 70

Post by Brig on Sat Oct 19, 2013 5:35 pm


I'm happy that your method works well for you, but based on your description of what the process is, I think I prefer to overhaul the blocks the more common way--remove, clean out the old crap, solder in new components, and mount back in the chassis. I've never found this procedure frustrating or too time-consuming.

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Re: Philco 70

Post by Bill Cahill on Sat Oct 19, 2013 6:49 pm

I've got a sad one that was given to me by the wife of a friend after he passed away. He had re capped it, and, all caps, resistors, and, electrolytics are hanging out on wires. Looks awful, and, some of the solder joints didn't hold... One of these days I have to tear into that poor sick puppy....

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Re: Philco 70

Post by willy3486 on Sat Oct 19, 2013 11:40 pm

I haven't even touched it since taking it apart. Maybe this winter.
Way to busy this year, getting the MIL moved completely,bought a truck and working to get it on the road, and finally getting my shop cleaned out. I am almost done with my shop where my tractor and planer area is. I should be done with that this week. Then next week after that I plan to trim some trees so I can walk under them and do the last of the yardwork for the year. Then the week after that I plan to do a clean up of the main shop area then some real repairs in the shop.

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