Improving but NOT Refinishing Cabinet

I have a bunch of 1923-25 battery sets with fair to pretty good finish. How should I go about making
them look nicer while retaining the original finish. Clean then? Howards finish restorer? Some other
type of blending agent? I am not looking for showroom new, just a more even look that makes the scuffs
less noticeable.


-Phil

I am not an expert at this but I have used a mild abrasive that doesn't scratch glass such as bon-ami. Chalk is also another form of polishing away scuffs and paint scrapes. I have even use a pencil eraser very lightly.

I have removed scuff marks and even from car finishes with Never Dull magic wading as it doesn't dull the painted surfaces. It polishes well and will create a shine if use carefully, also give Brasso a try. I have use all three on plastic to shine them to a mirror finish.

I wouldn't advise this on Paper finishes though.

These are all wood cabinets. I guess what I am really asking is if there is some sort of wash that will fill in the
lighter worn areas. Howard Restor-A-Finish is the only product I have heard of like this. Are there better others?

I may just brush some diluted stain on the worst areas as I don't like the idea changing the good original color with
wholesale staining.

-Phil

I LOVE this orange glo stuff you can buy IT IS AMAZING ON ALL TYPES OF WOOD.... it is the best thin i've ever bought!!!

You could also buy a tibit almond stick that works wonders on all types of scratches...

I'd love to see some pics

all the best
Robert

The camera I want is coming out in a month or two.

-Phil

What kind of camera? My friend just spent a fortune on this amazing cannon eos rebel xti.... The Pontiac Periseianne I am looking at buying is cheaper!!!


Robert

I had a nice Casio but it was too complex for me. Sold it to my brother and am going back to
Kodak-easy to use and pic quality gook enough for me. The new one has touch screen!
No time to look up model --work.

Phil

after useing howerd-restore-a-finish to fill in the marks and chips. After use scots liquid gold polish most polishes fade after a day or so 90% of the time liquid gold dose not. If you have a real dry finish use howards feed and wax. hope this helps John Tyminski

John, Did you mean use the feed and wax instead of restor-a-finish? Or instead of liquid gold?

-Phil

I have read that for a lasting finish that doesn't need constant care is to use Johnson's paste wax, but I haven't seen it in a long time.

no if you have a real dry finish use feed and wax first then after 2 or 3 coats of feed and wax buff the finish with scotts

john tyminski

Howard's is great stuff. JUst used some today in fact. I usually clean a set with Howard's first, buff off all the oily residue, then follow up with old-fashioned paste floor wax. That way you get a pretty nice shine that seals the surface as well.

If you want something that lasts use danish oil or Varathane brand stain . Wipe on one side or top at a time & wipe it back off .

Home Depot or Loew's sells Johnson's paste wax (can't remember which) but I wasn't too pleased with it.
It's a bit more money, but someone (at a local museum) recommended Meguires tech wax 2.0 and the difference between it and the Johnson's wax was like night and day.
It's $18 bucks for a can but you only need a small amount, it's MUCH easier to apply and take off, and the results are absolutely amazing.
The Johnson's wax is hard to use, and shows every single fingerprint if it's touched. It also shows "streaking" and it's really hard to remove. The Meguiars doesn't exhibit any of these problems. It's all I use now.
I ran out of Johnson's Wax when about 1/2 way through a wood cabinet and finished with the Meguire's. A year later the Johnson's is dull and dry while the Meguiar's looks just like it did the day I used it.
http://meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G12718